Mon 9th Feb: Los Angeles

Los Angeles is too big and complicated to do a self-visit, especially in the motorhome, so we decided to take a guided tour. I’ll take you round in the order we did it.

First off, the tour ran past some celebs homes in posh, well-manicured suburbs. The homes that you could see, because they were smaller, were owned by celebs we’d never heard of, and those big names that everybody knows, like Spielberg, were so set back and security fenced that they were almost invisible. Here’s an example of one we could just about make out- so perhaps the owner is just a star rather than a mega star.

Oddly, some of the big film star names of the post war period occupied relatively modest homes. Gene Kelly was a top actor, dancer, singer (Singing in the Rain) and, later, director, but you wouldn’t guess that from his house. Not that it’s at all bad, just not fabulous.

It’s only a sign, but it does say Beverley Hills. It was developed after 1914 when a group of oil prospectors, finding water instead of oil, decided to promote the area as residential. It caught on quickly with screen stars like Douglas Fairbanks, Rudolph Valentino and Charlie Chaplin moving in and building mansions. Later residents included Frank Sinatra, Elvis, Richard Nixon, Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston.

The tour guide told us an amusing story about Chaplin. At the height of his fame he happened to hear of a contest to find the best Charlie Chaplin impersonator, and, for a bit of fun, decided to enter under an assumed name. He came third!

The next drive-by is The Beverley Hills Hotel on Sunset Boulevard. It has welcomed guests like the Duke & Duchess of Windsor, John Wayne, and The Beatles. For those who remember the 70’s hit Hotel California by the Eagles, this hotel featured on the album cover, but it’s unclear whether it’s the sinister hotel the lyrics refer to.

The wealthy and famous have to shop somewhere in keeping with their status. That somewhere is Rodeo Drive, right in their neighbourhood, and this is a typical section of the shopping area.

The street is full of exclusive names, the most exclusive of which is jewellers Harry Winston. Fabulous stones can also be hired for special events, unless of course you are an ‘A’ list celeb like, say, Jennifer Aniston, in which case they pay you to wear the gems in return for a mention in the right places. Winston’s looks more like a bank than a store, but then I suppose that’s what it really is.

Not actually in ultra-high class Rodeo Drive, as its appearance is more down-market, is a store that caters exclusively for adored dogs. It’s called The Bakery For Dogs. What looks like toddler clothes on the front pillar are all doggy outfits. Inside is an Aladdin’s cave of OTT stuff from pampered poochland. 

Next comes Sunset Strip, part of Sunset Boulevard, and this is where many performers launched their careers in its clubs and cabaret venues. In daylight it looks a bit garish, even sleazy. Whisky a Gogo is one of the top clubs and has featured artistes like Neil Diamond, the Byrds, the Doors etc. The guide gave us equally famous acts coming along later but the names didn’t register as I’m stuck in a 60’s (70’s at a push) musical time warp.

We drive past some studios, Paramount, Universal, Fox, but not very photogenic. The one snap I did want was Jim Henson Productions studio- that’s the Muppets- but I botched the photo by cutting off the top of Kermit’s head on the gates.

Now to the financial district, the only skyscraper area in LA. These buildings all have to be earthquake proofed by being mounted on shock absorbers. They experience slight tremors quite frequently; the last major quake was in 1994. From here on we try not to feel worried by the bus shuddering from the bumps in the road.

At the edge of the financial district is the Walt Disney Concert Hall, home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic. It’s a most unusual modern design with highly acclaimed acoustics. Not clear where the door is; in case you can’t find it, take a tin opener.  

The tour bus then went from the futuristic concert hall to the oldest building in LA. The original settlement of Los Angeles was founded in 1781, when California was part of Spanish controlled Mexico, by 11 families who built the church of Nuestra Senora de Los Angeles (our Lady of the angels),. In time, the name became shortened to Los Angeles. This is their church.

Hollywood was the last port of call. The bus dropped us on Hollywood Boulevard, on the Walk of Fame where over 2,000 stars’ names have been set in a star in the pavement. 

The square in front of the Chinese Theatre farther along the Boulevard contains cement foot and hand prints of specially selected stars like Elizabeth Taylor and Anthony Hopkins. Jane (centre top, light hat) appears to be stuck in some quick-drying cement.

And, of course, we completed with a view of the Hollywood sign. Erected in 1923 by estate agents, it originally read Hollywoodland. In 1949 the Chamber of Commerce had the sign shortened to Hollywood, and then in 1978 it was completely replaced due to deterioration. The new sign was financed by Hugh Hefner, founder of Playboy magazine, with the 45 foot high lettering we see today. Access to the sign itself is restricted following suicides by jumping off the top of the letters, which can be easily climbed via the supporting scaffolding at the back.

Phew! Apologies for the extra-long blog, but it was a long tour.