Oct 20th: Key West

Key West is the farthest island in the chain linked by road to the mainland. The mainland is 100 miles back along the road, and Cuba 90 miles as the crow flies. So it’s hot, humid and tropical.

Key West became American in 1821 having been Spanish before that, except for a 20 year possession by the British. Its deep water harbour served to increase trade and importance as a port but the town also prospered from fishing, salt, salvaging and wrecking. By 1889 Key West was the biggest and most prosperous city in Florida.

The town centre is composed largely of grand wooden homes from the 19^th century, similar to many other historic US cities like New Orleans or Charleston.  

There are only a few brick or stone buildings. This is one of them, a copy of Havana Town Hall. It just needs a model of Fidel Castro on the balcony.

These days, revenue comes mainly from tourism, so make your visit expecting a generous dose of tourist tat and you won’t be disappointed. We have here in the next photo the “History of Smuggling and Wrecking Museum”, complete with watchtower. Outside were people in period costume shouting in Treasure Island “Ar, there, Jim lad” accents; all good fun.

But of course you enter into the spirit of it, so we took the trolley tour. These are the little buses in the photo above. I manage to get a good shot of Kermit, producer of one of the Islands signature goodies- Key Lime Pie. It’s a kind of lime flavoured cheesecake dipped in chocolate. We had an ice cream version that was yummy. I was a little let down that Kermit wasn’t dressed like a frog as per the Muppets.

We roll past the Hemingway’s house: the author lived here from 1931 to 1939. It’s probably most famous for its 6 toed cats, all descended from a cat Hemingway was given by a ship’s captain. We didn’t see any cats and not much of the house as we sailed by. Could that be Hemingway’s bike parked by the lamppost?

From cats to roosters; they are to be seen everywhere, and wander freely as protected species. They originated from Cuban immigrants who settled in Key West to work in the many cigar factories that then operated on the island. The Cubans brought their families and livestock with them. They prospered, and didn’t need the chickens for eggs or meat anymore, so released them. Opinion is divided; the tourists love them: they’re colourful, run daringly across busy roads and are harmless. The residents detest them for their mess and disease carrying potential, and the noise from the crowing roosters. As with most issues there are valid opposing viewpoints.

Every visitor takes this photo: the southernmost point in the USA, looking like a bottle bank. Go beyond and you fall off the edge of the World.

Parking is extremely difficult in Key West. We parked the motorhome in a suburban shopping centre and caught a taxi in. Some No Parking signs are amusing, though, as in the following photo. Bear in mind that the Keys area is the only frost-free part of the USA; the lowest temperature ever recorded in Key West is 43 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Wandering around after the trolley tour it was easier to look closer at some of the sights; this banyan tree for example. It’s over 100 years old and huge, with aerial prop roots straying into next door on the right.

The focal point of the old town is Mallory Square, famous for its sunsets. We were there in the middle of the afternoon so the square was deserted and not photogenic, so I snapped this up-market vagrant instead who was sitting in the square. Perhaps I’ve misjudged him; folks down here dress so casually that he could be the Harbour Master. 

On the political front, Key West was an important naval base from 1823 to 1974, and has played host to many US Presidents in the residence known as the Little White House. Kennedy met with the UK’s Harold McMillan here during the Cuba crisis. Eisenhower, Truman, Clinton and Carter stayed. This is it, although it doesn’t look quite as imposing as you’d expect.

Key West became more interesting the more you looked behind the touristy first impression. It has a fascinating history, linked closely with Cuba, and even established itself as a separate country in 1982 on a technicality. The Conch Republic, as it calls itself, has its own flag and passport but graciously allows itself to remain part of the USA.