Old Dubai

The original Dubai grew up around Dubai Creek, a saltwater inlet about 8 miles long. We travelled there on the ultramodern metro for which Rob had got us some swipe tickets.

First stop, the Dubai museum. Here were details of excavations showing traces of habitation in the area going back thousands of years. Then, from the 7^th century, travellers’ accounts mention a thriving fishing and pearling industry. Proper recorded history didn’t begin until the late 1700’s when the oldest building was started, that’s the Al Fahidi Fort, now the museum. 

The museum gave a good presentation of the settlement’s history, particularly of the hazardous pearl collecting that employed large numbers up to the late 1920’s. After that time it fizzled out due to Japanese development of cultivated pearls.

The divers packed onto small boats like the one below and went as deep as 40 metres with just a peg on their nose. They wore full garments to protect against jelly fish stings, and could hold their breath for 4 to 5 minutes.

Here’s the fruit of their labours: pearls.

Proceeding along the Creek’s shoreline promenade, we came to the Heritage Village. This housed trinket shops and recreated traditional dwellings. However, there was no description of who occupied the dwellings or when, so it didn’t add a lot to our understanding of Dubai’s development.  The gaps in the wall’s stonework in this house look uncomfortably draughty, but were perhaps welcome in the heat. The plastic bin possibly dates it to the 1970’s, but there’s no telly, so who knows?

Moving a few doors down to the Sheik’s house, we entered a pleasant courtyard with rooms leading off containing texts from the Koran, with English translation. You’d need to have a good understanding of Islam to appreciate these, so it didn’t add much to our knowledge of the area either. In that respect, the Sheik’s house was no great shakes. However, notice the rectangular tower at the back. These towers were used to catch any breeze and funnel it into the rooms below to provide relief from the heat.

From 1892 Dubai became a British protectorate, and shortly after a tax-free port. This greatly expanded trade and Dubai thrived until the world recession of the late 20’s and 30’s. The Creek is still bustling with boats today, but mainly small ferry boats. 

Markets too flourished, in gold, spice and cloth. These are there today, so here we are, walking through the cloth market that supplies locals and tourists alike. I asked the same question in Morocco- why can’t the stallholders let you browse without hassling? You might just spot something you like and want to buy. Instead, you scurry past, head down, to avoid the hard sell on random items shoved under your nose. There again… perhaps we would have sold more shoes if…

Old Dubai is still a vibrant multi-national trading entity, reflecting the high immigrant population that the whole of Dubai needs to function. 85% is Asian, mainly from India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka and the Philippines.

The area was interesting, particularly the Dubai Museum, but we could have learned much more from other historic sites with the use of descriptions and information plaques.