Salobrena is an Andalusian
white town near our campsite. This is a typical steep street that we ascended
on our way to the castle.
The houses show a simple elegance in spite of the angle of the street.
The beautiful
shrine at the top of the street looks like a dead end, but steps carry on
upwards from both the left and right of the Virgin Mary. It looks like she might
be there to point out the paths for those confused.
We pass through
delightful little squares like this one at the top of the long flight of steps
from the shrine.
Onwards and upwards!
But very picturesque, with ornamented cobbled paving, so well worth the effort.
Now we have arrived
at the castle, the highest point in Salobrena. It was built by the Moors (the
Arabs) in the 10th century and has only just opened to the public
after major restoration that is still not complete.
It’s a traditional
looking castle for those days with big, strong walls set on a good defensible
position like a mound, or hill, or rocky outcrop.
The view over the
battlements is extensive although a little too misty to see the distant
mountains. However, I did zoom in on the last sugar cane processing factory in
Europe, which closed in 2006. The Moors brought the sugar cane crop with them
in the 10th century when they settled on this coast, and found the
climate around Salobrena to be ideal for it to flourish. The area became a major
sugar producer until the plant was introduced to the West Indies by Spanish
explorers where it thrived even better. Thereafter, the home industry went into
a slow decline.
The fort’s
practical purpose didn’t prevent the builders from including artistic design
features, like the circular patterns in the brickwork on the top of the water
cistern.
Leaving the castle,
we descended the steep streets back to the car and drove a few miles to the
coast. A glance back shows the rock on which the castle is built; you can see
what a good defensive position it occupies.
We end on a sad
note, from the Spanish Civil War. Its tragedies are overshadowed by the Second
World War that started soon after, so are not much reported outside of Spain.
This monument below
describes the flight of thousands of refugees heading east from Malaga to
escape Franco’s advancing troops. The fleeing refugees, mainly women, children
and old folks, were bombed and shelled by Franco’s forces as they retreated. At
the Guadalfeo River near Salobrena, swollen by winter rains, many drowned as
they tried to cross in panic to escape. In that complete journey between 3,000
and 5,000 refugees perished.
We enjoyed an interesting day out, rounded off with a very enjoyable
Chinese meal at €5.95 (£4.60) for the 3 course set menu.
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