Segovia

Also the name of world the world famous classical guitarist who died in 1987, this atmospheric city is very much alive- with tourists visiting its three ‘A’ list attractions.

Top star is the Roman aqueduct, acknowledged as the most impressive Roman structure in Spain. It was built around end of the 1^st century A.D. to carry water from the Sierra Guadarrama mountains into Segovia. It’s the first thing we saw on arrival.

Close-up it’s even more intimidating. Nearly 100 feet tall, 170 arches, 25,000 stone blocks with no mortar.

Climbing up the pedestrian stairway into the old town you get to see these dry stone blocks close up and its half mile length.

Below is the walled town we’re about to explore. We ascended the steps but you could equally drive up on this road. The town was walled by order of King Alphonso, he of Avila fame, after he’d driven off the Moors.

At the top of the steps is a lovely view of part of the city with the partially snow-capped Guadarrama Mountains as background.

Into the old city now and to mustvisit no.2, the cathedral. You’re perhaps all cathedralled out- there’s been one in every recent blog- but this is a fine example and we won’t spend too long on it. From the outside it’s a landmark sight, the last gothic cathedral built in Spain. 

The altar screen is usually the most visually arresting point in cathedrals and here too it doesn’t disappoint in its massed ornate gilded pillars and icons.

The altar background carries on upwards to a ceiling of exquisite craftsmanship.

However it poses the question whether a less glitzy treatment doesn’t result in a more powerful impression of grace and beauty, as in this other altar setting. The proportions of the arches, rib vaulting and the fine, neutral coloured carvings across the back window are, I think, much more effective.

On display was a selection of tools and pulleys used in the cathedral’s construction. It is incredible to us today that these wonderful buildings were constructed with such primitive tools, and how well they’ve endured.

Cathedral visit over, we enter the busy streets to head for the Alcazar, our last major attraction.

The Alcazar is a medieval fortress, first documented in 1122 but probably there long before that. It was a favourite residence for many Spanish monarchs.  Substantially rebuilt in the original style following a disastrous fire in 1862, it now houses military archives and the Royal Artillery School museum. This is a view of the entrance which shows its unusual design.

The structure is partly hidden by the front towers and is larger than it appears from the photo. It’s a typical castle introduction to start: knights in armour, although only jousting armour we are told, not battle quality. Still somewhat heavier than the average guy would want to wear to the office, methinks.

When they rebuilt the castle they extended it but still left the original outer wall that then became an inner wall. This now looks slightly odd now but does show the Moorish influence on the old fortress’ design.

The Alcazar is full of amazing ceilings, and the following photo is an example. The cathedrals we’ve visited are just the same- magnificent, ornate ceilings, even in rooms with plain walls. Why would you put so much time and money into decorating the part of the room that’s least visible? Did they spend that much time lying flat on their backs- maybe the drink was stronger then?

 The armoury displays medieval weapons like these next cannon. They have to be more of a threat to the user than to the enemy.

On the forward battlements the audio guide pointed out a feature in the mountains noted from ancient times- the Sleeping Lady. Using your imagination, her face is side-view on the left of the photo, her tummy in the middle. Reminded us of an acclaimed indisputable likeness of Padre Pio on the side of a building in Italy. All we could see was broken plaster. 

The Alcazar was built on a steep cliff, a strong defensive position. It was also surrounded by a moat fed by encircling rivers. This gives an idea of its Impregnability and it fact was never captured.

The artillery museum was full of exhibits but needed too long to decipher to make a suitable blog, so we walked through and had a general look just before leaving the Alcazar. Back outside in the plaza, we look up and see several storks’ nests, some with young. These are big birds and the nests huge and untidy. You certainly wouldn’t want one on your chimney.

Back through Segovia old town to the car park we pass many splendid buildings but no time (or inclination at this stage) to pause to discover their history. An example below.

An antiquity of an entirely different type is visible in a private garage. It’s a vintage Rolls Royce, with a UK number plate. The owner also looked more Brit than Spanish. The internet tells me it’s a 1930 Phantom ll, sold about 2 years ago by a UK dealer presumably to this chap. In the depths of the garage we noticed more Rolls Royces. We didn’t have the nerve to approach the guy at the time for more info, and of course later wished we had.

Car Park and back to El Escorial campsite, 40 minutes. Segovia offered a varied day out that we thoroughly enjoyed. Even the parking was easy although expensive.