June 7th: Bayeux and the Tapestry

Bayeux was the first city to be liberated after D Day and suffered little war damage so the town still retains many medieval features. This is a typical example from the central area.

Here is a picturesque old mill on the river Aure that runs through the old part.

The outstanding building in the old town is the cathedral. It was built by order of Bishop Odo, William the Conqueror’s half brother and dedicated in 1077. It has been altered since, as practically all cathedrals have, but nonetheless retains a beautiful harmonious image.

The crypt, part of the original  structure, is highly atmospheric with illustrations of angels playing trumpets and what my guide book tells me are bagpipes. Anyone, angels included,  playing ‘Scotland The Brave’ for all eternity might just shorten the queue for Heaven a little.

The cathedral contains some colourful friezes, one showing the murder of Thomas a Becket in Canterbury cathedral in 1170. He was more Norman than English, with connections to Bayeux, hence meriting the illustration here. We forget that religious buildings were often decorated in bright colours that have faded over the centuries. This restored small alcove suggests how parts of the cathedral may have looked in its heyday.

I do like a nice gargoyle. This one is a carving rather than a gargoyle but look like he’s just bitten on a sour lemon.

Above all it’s the sheer elegance of the building that is so impressive. Look at the vaulting bathed in the gentle light through the east end stained glass windows.

The Bayeux Tapestry used to be shown annually in the Cathedral but is now on permanent  exhibition at a dedicated museum a few hundred metres away where it is stored under optimum conditions to preserve it for posterity.

This is where we’re now heading , to the Tapestry Museum. Long queues, so we buy the tickets and come back after lunch. Now slightly shorter queues.

No photos of the tapestry, understandably, so what follows are photos of photos that may not be best quality. 

The tapestry is 230 feet long, 20 inches high and contains 58 numbered scenes. Scolars say there was originally one further scene, now missing, at the end. 

Each visitor is issued with an audio guide describing the events in sequence in the tapestry. The audio commentary starts automatically and cannot be paused: you have to keep moving so the description synchronises with where you’re looking.   

The story starts with ageing English king Edward The Confessor sending Harold to tell William Duke of Normandy that  he, William, is to be the successor to the English throne. Harold pledges allegiance to William and they are the best of chums.  Shortly after, King Edward dies and Harold grabs the throne of England for himself. William feels both incensed and betrayed so decides to invade England to reclaim what he sees as his right. Here’s the invasion fleet on the way.

It seems to be quite a jolly affair, indeed, the commentary pointed out that some of the horses on board are smiling. Then, when they land at Pevensey beach, they have a barbie! Chicken and various meats are identified and a good time is had by all. Bishop Odo is seen seated at the circular table on the extreme right.

Now comes the serious bit. William moves inland a few miles to join battle with Harold who has appeared  with his troops that have forced marched from Stamford Bridge in Yorkshire. Notice how the tapestry manages to impart movement to the mounted horsemen by the use of different colours. Bishop Odo- that man again- is seen in one of the frames carrying a mace into the battle. Being in holy orders, he was not allowed to draw blood but it was ok to brain the enemy with his mace. Must keep to the rules.

Sad end- and we all know this bit- Harold perishes with an arrow in his eye. He’s difficult to spot, but Harold is holding the almond shaped burgundy shield with the white cross. He’s also the one with the arrow in his eye. Should have worn safety goggles.

 The final outcome was that William won and was crowned King of England in Westminster Abbey on Christmas Day 1066.

The Tapestry was commissioned soon after 1066 by none other than Bishop Odo. As expected, the story is told from the Norman perspective, but that is the winner’s prerogative. Its account is pretty even-handed, to be fair.

It is generally thought to have been embroidered in England, probably Winchester or Canterbury; perhaps both.

The Tapestry’s own history is quite diverse, and it is first recorded in 1476 as part of the Bayeux Cathedral inventory. It disappears and pops up again regularly, for instance in the French Revolution when it was used for covering military wagons until rescued by a local lawyer. Now it’s safe in its climate controlled environment.

The Tapestry is a unique historical document, particularly in furnishing us with military and civilian details of that era. We certainly felt it a privilege to be able to look back through its window on events nearly 1000 years ago.