We’re starting back towards Dallas where we hand back the
camper in a week’s time. Kingsville is on the route so we stop here to see one
of the biggest ranches in the USA, the King ranch, weighing in at 825,000
acres.
Richard King the founder was born in 1824. At the age of 11 he ran away to sea as a
stowaway. On discovery, he persuaded the captain to make him cabin boy.
Although with little formal education, he was smart, and by the age of 21 was a
captain in his own right. By 24 he owned his own boat and traded profitably
along the Rio Grande River in partnership with several others.
In 1852 King came north on horseback to the Lone State Fair
in Corpus Christi and noted that the only water he passed was at a Santa
Gertrudis Creek. He thought it would be an ideal location for cattle raising. The
next year, with a partner called Lewis, he bought 15,500 acres at 2 cents an
acre. In 1855 Lewis was shot following a romantic dispute and King bought Lewis’
share from his estate. The accumulation of land had begun.
This is the creek that drew King to buy his first acres.
The earliest surviving ranch building is in elegant Spanish
style. Many of King’s workers were Hispanic, a whole Mexican village having
been recruited early on to work on the ranch.
We took a tour of the ranch- obviously only a small section-
which promised to give an idea of how it was run and their types of cattle and
horses. Unfortunately, the size of even this small part proved its undoing as,
in most instances, the animals appeared as tiny dots on the far side of enormous
fields. Texas is generally flat and this region is no exception, so not much
scenery either. Rather like driving through the fens.
Well, we did see a Weaver’s cottage where the horse saddle
blankets were made until recently, and the loom. It took about a week to make
each one. Presumably the Chinese now make them for a fraction of the price.
This is an odd patent, a gate that shuts itself but whacks
the tail of your vehicle if you drive through too fast. It’s a way of
regulating the impatience of the many contractors and visitors to the ranch.
To cater for American tastes they allow hunting on the ranch,
and in front of some of the estate cottages the hunters have built rather gruesome
towers of antlers.
The ranch also breeds champion cattle and registered the
first new American breed in 1940, the Santa Gertrudis. The cattle photos on the
range look like just any other cows, but there are mounted Santa Gertrudis bulls
heads in the museum that are more impressive, as if they had charged through
the wall together.
The Ranch was reasonably Interesting, but could have been
much more so given closer views of the animals, and with stops to do so,
accompanied by a more relevant and enthusiastic commentary from the guide. Only
2 out of 5 stars I’m afraid.
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