Nov 8th: Hola Mexico!

General advice is, don’t go to Mexico as the border towns are too dangerous: banditos likely to rob you, or caught in a shoot-out between rival drug gangs. We’re told that the Wild West still survives here on the Mexican border.

Delving into folk’s actual experiences of crossing into Mexico, it seemed there is one tame town called Progreso that also happens to be close to where we’re staying. So we decide to go, and drive to the crossing point, parking the car on the US side, then walking across the bridge spanning the Rio Grande. It feels like the covered bridge into Peterborough Queensgate Centre from the railway station side car park.

At the halfway point across the river is a plaque that marks the exact frontier line. The boundary was always the centreline of the river but in years of flooding in these flatlands the river would change course and, with it, the border. It is said that a certain chapel changed sides many times over several centuries. The Boundary Commission finally agreed in 1970 how this issue was to be resolved.

At the end of the bridge you walk straight into Progreso. It’s a fully committed tourist town with garish signs and vendors everywhere.

Over and above the expected shops and stalls are a large number of dentists, evidently charging much less than back across the bridge. Would you want to take the chance, though, and end up with a set of teeth that only speak Spanish. Numerous pharmacies, as well, since meds are also much cheaper on this side. Eyecatching rather than tasteful is the order of the day- isn’t that right, Pancho?

The bazaar style sidewalks could be in any of the poorer countries like Morocco or India. They offer their wares as you pass but here don’t pester if you say, “no thanks”.  That is different from Morocco where they sometimes grab your arm or chase after you. 

The one department store sets itself above the other traders, selling slightly better tourist tat. These Mexican dresses are very colourful, but I can’t really see Jane turning up in one to WI back in Alconbury.

We finish off in the department store café, chatting to two Texans (clue: the hats). In the background is some local mood music, and we had a decent cup of coffee.

Crossing back into Texas, the passport formality on the US side only took a few minutes. We didn’t feel uneasy or threatened at any time in Progreso, but then it was full of American tourists, the town’s income source, so why would they want to jeopardise that? To underwrite the security, we were told that there is an armed guard presence, the Rurales, but we didn’t notice any.

Definitely a day out with a difference, and we didn’t even buy a sombrero. Hasta la vista!