Virginia Again

We arrive in Portsmouth on Friday 30^th October. Everywhere is full of Halloween stuff; houses with pumpkins, skeletons and witches on the porches and in the windows; ghost tours around Portsmouth Old Town; trick or treaters roaming the streets. It’s much more of a celebration here than in the UK, but then we have Guy Fawkes Night.

By coincidence, Ralph and Kelly are moving house this weekend, so we can be truly useful. The old flat is too small with a new baby, so they’ve gone for a three bedroom semi less than a mile away. Here’s the new home, the right hand half with the U-Haul self-removal van in front. 

 It’s a really nice house dating from 1900 with solid wood floors and plenty of space. This is me and Ralph moving in a bed/settee that appears to be specifically designed to trap your fingers.

This wouldn’t be complete without a moving family photo! Ginny was as good as gold during the move, so most of the time we were all able to attack the packing.

Monday 2^nd November we head for Claire’s. The weather’s turned warm again, an unseasonal high 70’s even for Virginia, and it’s very pleasant. We go for some lovely walks and the State Park nearby was showing its autumn colours, as can be seen from the following two photos. First one is Claire and Jane, second is Claire and me.

The park even has a narrow sandy beach where there was a landing stage in use up to the time of the Civil War. It’s where the Potomac River starts to widen out before reaching the sea at Chesapeake Bay. On the far shore is the neighbouring State of Maryland.

Many residential areas are located in the enormous amount of mixed woodland still remaining in most States. Of course, it’s a mixed blessing with all those leaves to clear up at this time of the year. Claire’s street- her house is first on the right- is a typical example of these rural neighbourhoods.

Our return flight leaves Washington at 8.30pm on Thursday 5th November and arrives at Heathrow at 9.55am on Friday 6th. It's been a lovely trip.

Camping near Miami

We stayed at a campsite run by Dade County, called “Larry & Penny Thompson Campground”. In the US, they often name places after noteworthy local people. In this case, it’s clearly after local benefactors Mr & Mrs Campground.

It’s a spacious site, and much cheaper than privately run ones, so when the season gets going from November onward, it’s totally full. We noticed strange fruit growing on the trees. These turned out to be avocados; we think the site must originally have been a fruit farm. They fall from the trees so could put quite a ding in your camper roof, but at least they’re not coconuts.

 Larry & Penny, as everyone calls it, is part of a complex that includes a large public park and lake, and Miami Zoo. This is part of the extensive park walking trail; if you get lost, any passing gorilla will be pleased to direct you to back the campsite.

The park is also something of a wildlife haven. We saw a pair of bald eagles, one perched and one flying. No camera, unfortunately (they all say that), but I did snap an osprey on another occasion.

Even the small fry are different from UK varieties. Look at this large cuddly caterpillar. 

Now for some signpost trivia. Is this sign saying, “mums-to-be are round the bend”?

Or this one, “millipedes this way”?

I think we’re losing it- time to catch the plane back to Virginia.

Miami Beach

Miami Beach conjures up jet-set sun bathers and cool dudes with big shades, something like the photo.

 It’s a long, wide beach, of which there are three, with fine, white sand. All are open to the public, even including that lady in the foreground wearing the kiss-me-quick hat who’s thinking about going for a paddle. She says it’s not a patch on Skegness- there’s no bingo, candy floss or fish and chips.

Bathing in Paradise has a few drawbacks, like this jellyfish. I’m not sure if this type is a stinger, but a few days after our visit a swimmer was badly bitten by a shark.

The beach is separated from the town by a grassy promenade, complete with dossers. The first few rows of buildings along the front are all Art Deco design, built mainly in the 1920’s. Many of our UK cinemas are Art Deco design as they were also built in the 1920’s.The photo looks at the seafront buildings, from the promenade.

Here’s another typical Art Deco building, of which there are hundreds, chosen not just for the architecture but also for the two classic cars outside.

There were an immense number of restaurants along the front, most somewhat off-putting not so much from high prices but from loud music and odd menus and drinks served in chamber-pot sized glasses with contents to match. We found a café round the corner with Miami ambiance, but without the yuppie bits.

We found Miami Beach an interesting time capsule because the architecture was almost all of the same elegant type, and was well maintained. The beaches were huge and uncrowded, and the town had a classy feel. I suppose that film and TV programmes about Miami Beach lead one to expect something more, something unique and fabulous, which we didn’t see in it, but It was still a splendid day out.

Oct 26th: Shark Valley

We’re back in the Everglades National Park, this time in Shark Valley. It’s hardly a valley and there are no sharks here but there are where the swamp waters run into the sea; hence the name.

We take a tram tour on a 14 mile nature run. What’s immediately obvious is the amount of water birds, some unusual like this two foot tall limpkin that feeds mainly off giant apple snails. He’s called a limpkin because he appears to limp. Presumably he would be a hopkin if he hopped.

You’re lucky to see the shy pumas, bears or Burmese python. The python is non-native and has quickly established from pet owner releases when they grow too large. Efforts to trap them are unsuccessful, and there are estimated to be between 10,000 and 150,000 in the Everglades. They are a real threat to native species, especially small mammals some of which have declined by 98%. They are a major and growing problem for the Park authorities. Anyone know a good snake charmer?

Alligators, however, are the good guys, and part of the Park’s ecosystem. To breed, they build nests about four feet in diameter.

Only around 10% of the hatchlings make it to adulthood as they make a tasty snack for all sorts of creatures, including mature alligators. Here Jane and I were lucky; after the conducted tour finished we quietly watched a swamp area behind the tour tram parking lot. Soon we heard some squeaks, and then several baby alligators nervously appeared. This is one, about 9 inches long. 

The system reverses with the fully grown alligator-he has you for tea. In fact, they aren’t dangerous unless provoked or are protecting young. In spite of the reassurances, you wouldn’t go and pet him, would you?

The swamp water flows from north to south, a 200 mile journey before it reaches the sea. The water is very clear and supports numerous fish and even turtles, like this soft shelled turtle about three feet long. It was clearly visible in the original photo but now looks like one of those ‘put a cross where you think it is’ pictures the Sunday papers used to feature. Win a can of turtle soup for the cross nearest its head! 

The Miccosukee Indians lived in the Everglades before the settlers encroached on their lands and upset the delicate eco-system with land drainage to turn the land into agriculture. This has largely been reversed in more recent time, which is why we can see the Everglades in its natural form.

The Miccosukee hung on in their native lands into the 1920’s when this photo was taken of their village. The village occupies higher ground just a few feet above the swamp.

The Indians caught fish and trapped creatures. They were able to live with the mosquitos, and navigated the shallow waters in dugout canoes. This is a photo of the tribe who lived in the above village.

Their traditional life is long gone now and has been replaced by a casino on their reservation up the road. This is a government sponsored option, and it’s a debatable question as to whether a profitable casino can satisfactorily replace their rich heritage and customs lost through their displacement by settlers (i.e. us Europeans). 

Oct 20th: Key West

Key West is the farthest island in the chain linked by road to the mainland. The mainland is 100 miles back along the road, and Cuba 90 miles as the crow flies. So it’s hot, humid and tropical.

Key West became American in 1821 having been Spanish before that, except for a 20 year possession by the British. Its deep water harbour served to increase trade and importance as a port but the town also prospered from fishing, salt, salvaging and wrecking. By 1889 Key West was the biggest and most prosperous city in Florida.

The town centre is composed largely of grand wooden homes from the 19^th century, similar to many other historic US cities like New Orleans or Charleston.  

There are only a few brick or stone buildings. This is one of them, a copy of Havana Town Hall. It just needs a model of Fidel Castro on the balcony.

These days, revenue comes mainly from tourism, so make your visit expecting a generous dose of tourist tat and you won’t be disappointed. We have here in the next photo the “History of Smuggling and Wrecking Museum”, complete with watchtower. Outside were people in period costume shouting in Treasure Island “Ar, there, Jim lad” accents; all good fun.

But of course you enter into the spirit of it, so we took the trolley tour. These are the little buses in the photo above. I manage to get a good shot of Kermit, producer of one of the Islands signature goodies- Key Lime Pie. It’s a kind of lime flavoured cheesecake dipped in chocolate. We had an ice cream version that was yummy. I was a little let down that Kermit wasn’t dressed like a frog as per the Muppets.

We roll past the Hemingway’s house: the author lived here from 1931 to 1939. It’s probably most famous for its 6 toed cats, all descended from a cat Hemingway was given by a ship’s captain. We didn’t see any cats and not much of the house as we sailed by. Could that be Hemingway’s bike parked by the lamppost?

From cats to roosters; they are to be seen everywhere, and wander freely as protected species. They originated from Cuban immigrants who settled in Key West to work in the many cigar factories that then operated on the island. The Cubans brought their families and livestock with them. They prospered, and didn’t need the chickens for eggs or meat anymore, so released them. Opinion is divided; the tourists love them: they’re colourful, run daringly across busy roads and are harmless. The residents detest them for their mess and disease carrying potential, and the noise from the crowing roosters. As with most issues there are valid opposing viewpoints.

Every visitor takes this photo: the southernmost point in the USA, looking like a bottle bank. Go beyond and you fall off the edge of the World.

Parking is extremely difficult in Key West. We parked the motorhome in a suburban shopping centre and caught a taxi in. Some No Parking signs are amusing, though, as in the following photo. Bear in mind that the Keys area is the only frost-free part of the USA; the lowest temperature ever recorded in Key West is 43 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Wandering around after the trolley tour it was easier to look closer at some of the sights; this banyan tree for example. It’s over 100 years old and huge, with aerial prop roots straying into next door on the right.

The focal point of the old town is Mallory Square, famous for its sunsets. We were there in the middle of the afternoon so the square was deserted and not photogenic, so I snapped this up-market vagrant instead who was sitting in the square. Perhaps I’ve misjudged him; folks down here dress so casually that he could be the Harbour Master. 

On the political front, Key West was an important naval base from 1823 to 1974, and has played host to many US Presidents in the residence known as the Little White House. Kennedy met with the UK’s Harold McMillan here during the Cuba crisis. Eisenhower, Truman, Clinton and Carter stayed. This is it, although it doesn’t look quite as imposing as you’d expect.

Key West became more interesting the more you looked behind the touristy first impression. It has a fascinating history, linked closely with Cuba, and even established itself as a separate country in 1982 on a technicality. The Conch Republic, as it calls itself, has its own flag and passport but graciously allows itself to remain part of the USA. 

Friday 16th Oct: Big Pine Key

Big Pine Key is about 2/3 of the way down the 100 mile Keys island chain. Our campsite is directly on the bay and caters for boaters so it has its own quay and a separate small harbour. This is the quay; the campsite stretches off to the right. Well bring our inflatable plastic dinghy next time.

It’s the low season until the end of this month; on 1^st November, we are told, the site fills up completely almost overnight. Still, right now we get the choice of an excellent pitch overlooking the bay. Doing a holiday blog, it’s tempting to always use photos bathed in sunshine, but the view from our pitch looks more dramatic with the dark clouds. Jane’s taking her tea out- abroad we may be, but we’re British and can’t function without tea.

Big Pine Key is a national sanctuary for the only remaining population of Key deer, a small species that seems to have made a remarkable comeback going by the numbers that we saw. This is a stag crossing a side road. 

There aren’t many beaches in the Keys, and most of those are artificial. Our nearest local beach is called Long Beach. We set off in anticipation, imagining a beach a mile long with a hundred yards width of sand. A little deflated when we arrive at a beach a couple of hundred yards long and five feet wide; that is, depending on the tide; tide in = zero feet wide. Still, it takes a pleasant enough photo, particularly as I haven’t stripped off for a skinnydip.

People will dump stuff anywhere, we thought as we came across this plastic helmet.

How wrong can you be! It’s a horseshoe crab, evident when we turned it over; deceased of course.

The campsite nature trail reveals some interesting features: this gumbo limbo tree for instance. With its peeling bark, it’s also known as the “tourist tree” as it looks like a holidaymaker’s skin who’s been sunbathing too long.

The area is full of birdlife, with its shallow ponds and abundance of vegetation and fish. This next photo contains white ibis, great egret, reddish egret and snowy egret.

Much of the rock around is coral from past eras when sea levels were much higher. This is an example of two types (two photos joined together); the left hand one is called brain coral because it looks like a brain. So it’s a good place to come for a top-up when your brain starts wearing out: that’s the reason we’re here.