San Antonio and the Alamo

San Antonio is one of the earliest Spanish settlements, centred around a mission built in 1718 on the banks of the San Antonio River. Travelling in from our campsite we pass through the usual urban sprawl and confusing road system. Texan drivers take no prisoners, but the satnav wins through.

Once in the Downtown area, it’s very pleasant. Even the highrise buildings have an air of mature elegance.

 Downtown is built around the Riverwalk. This is a scenic pedestrian thoroughfare threading its way along the banks of the San Antonio River. It is entirely separate from the road system. This is where we joined it.

There is a small theatre where the stage is on one side of the river and the seating on the opposite bank. The complete answer to the audience rushing the stage.

The lush greenery they’ve managed to pack into the walkway is amazing. Jane is looking suitably flabbergasted.

We stroll past hotels and the many riverside restaurants. Our goal is on the far side of the Riverwalk: the Alamo. If one historical building symbolises Texas, this is the one. I’m looking very proprietorial in the photo, as if I’ve just bought it.

The Alamo mission church is only part of the complex that grew up from 1718 onwards. Extra buildings were erected to service the conversion of the local Indians and also to establishing a Spanish presence in the area.

The mission was closed in 1793 and taken over by the Spanish military soon after. Part of the barracks is still standing and is used as a museum. These are the arches leading into the quarters.

Mexico successfully fought a war of independence from Spain in the early 1820s, so thereafter Mexican troops garrisoned the Alamo fort. The new Mexican Government encouraged settlers from the bordering United States, and copied the American arrangement where each state had a large degree of autonomy.

In 1833 President Santa Ana came to power in Mexico. He had different ideas, gradually and forcefully increasing central control. In 1835 the Texan settlers rebelled, capturing the weakly defended Alamo. Santa Ana sprang into action and personally led a force of 2,000 soldiers to re-take the fort. Imagine the 200 Texan volunteers in the Alamo observing the approach of the smart massed ranks of Mexican regulars. This is a Mexican uniform.

February 1836: battle commences. The Texans included legendary heroes like Jim Bowie and Davie Crockett. They had a few cannon, but otherwise relied on primitive weapons such as these.

The colourful Mexican army uniforms made good targets for the defenders’ muzzle loading rifles, demonstrated by the re-enactment Texan Volunteer soldier below, and the cannon kept the enemy at bay for the time being.

After 13 days, the weight of numbers triumphed, and the Mexicans broke through; the defenders all perished.

The church (no photos inside) is a shrine to the fallen, with the full list of names and flags representing their place of birth. I was surprised to see a Welsh flag, and discovered that a certain Lewis Johnson who moved to Texas from Virginia had been born in Wales. However, they’re now not sure about his birthplace so but the Welsh flag remains until they decide.

A happy ending to the Texan uprising in the capture of Santa Ana later that year at the battle of San Jacinto. Texan independence was granted in exchange for his safe return.

So, all heroed out, we walk back along the Riverwalk to the car park. We were amused to note that the ducks have no respect for the exclusive riverbank dining experiences in their quest for food.

San Antonio downtown, as they call it- the old part in other words- had more character than most American cities because of its history and the Riverwalk, a real gem.

Onwards to Kerrville and LBJ

Next morning, Tuesday 16^th October. We move campsites in a few minutes. Cruise America say they are working on our leak problem, can maybe arrange a swap at their San Antonio depot. We say we’ll go to Kerrville via San Antonio, so please have one ready. Let’s push them along. We arrive San Antonio depot at 1:00pm. The manager there says he JUST received a call from the Assistance desk, but he does in fact have a spare motorhome, old and grubby, but weatherproof. Yes, we’ll take it.

Now rainproof in Kerrville, the next day we visit a local attraction: LBJ’s ranch. You wonder- who was LBJ?

Lyndon B Johnson was the 36^th President of the USA. This is his most iconic photo, being sworn in as President on the day of Kennedy’s assassination. Johnson, as vice-president, automatically took over. Jackie Kennedy is standing alongside.

Johnson’s family story is interesting. His grandparent came as settlers in the 1850’s and started out in this “dog trot” cabin. It is so named because a dog could trot through the empty space between the two sections. One part was living quarters, the other for sleeping, and the separating space a working or even sleeping area in hot weather.

                           

The Comanche tribes were a frequent threat, understandably, because, they were being driven off their lands. LBJ’s grandmother hid in the crawlspace under the cabin with her daughter whilst they plundered the cabin on one occasion. They’re not looking happy in the photo, so let’s hope they didn’t scalp the photographer.

Granddad made a fortune organising 4 cattle drives from 1867 to 1870, then lost it all when the market collapsed. Cattle thrived in this area, called the Hill Country, with the lush, tall grass as in the next photo.  Me there for scale. It misled the early settlers into thinking it was rich soil. However, it was thin and poor for crops and only suitable for grazing.

LBJ was born in 1908 in this a dog trot cabin a few miles away from his grandparents dog trot home. The family photo shows the cabin at the back. It’s worth looking at some of the formally posed characters, particularly the two ladies who appear to be bound together with barbed wire.

LBJ’s schoolroom also takes a good photo, particularly the heating system: a wood stove with a long hot pipe. LBJ himself taught for a time in a poor Hispanic area and this fired his political aim to provide a good education for all children. His many education reforms substantially achieved this, the most significant of which was signed into law outside this very schoolroom in the presence of his original teacher!

The LBJ family moved to Johnson City, named after a relation, 15 miles away. His parents were comfortably well off and involved in politics inspired young Lyndon’s political ambitions. He gave his first speech from the veranda of the home. He addressed an invited audience rather haranguing, bible-puncher style, the few passers-by from the local farming community.

Following political success by election to the US Senate in 1948, LBJ bought his aunt’s run-down ranch estate in 1951, which also included the house he was born in a few photos above. He steadily improved it so it become known as the Texas White House during his Presidency, but even then it was more a large family home than a grand mansion.

An airstrip was built on the ranch that could accommodate executive size jets but nothing as large as the Air Force Ones of other Presidents. In fact, he would refer to his small aircraft as Air Force One-Half.

Inside, the plane was modestly furnished and rather cramped.

 LBJ had a weakness for cars, not just the big showy models, of which he had several. He would take visitors in a particular car to a lake and drive the car straight into the water, much to their alarm. But it was an amphibious car and so became a boat. This is it, made in Germany.

The most bizarre vehicle used for transporting guests was LBJ’s fire engine. This was a gift from a town in Texas, being out of date for regular use.

So much for the trappings of LBJ’s office. As person he could be crude, aggressive and domineering. His was not an endearing personality, but in his 5 years of office he signed more bills into legislation than any other President: over 1,000. He made into law bills on civil rights, education, environmental protection, gun control and social security, including Medicare and Medicaid. He truly believed in equality of opportunity.

The downside of his term was the escalation of the Vietnam War, but that was an unwinnable situation for any President. Without the war his even more ambitious plans for a fair, just and equal society might have been realised. He really was a great President, an unsung hero, and perhaps heroes can’t always afford to be nice people.

Inks Lake and Berry Creek Parks

Inks Lake is one of nearly 100 State Parks. These are varied and well run, many with campsites and water activities. All have trails for hikers and bikers. So here we are walking by the lake, taking in the pretty view.

Very nice, but we’ve got pretty views aplenty in the UK. But here are a few things that are different. In the logs and stones near the water’s edge are clumps of basking turtles. This is one such group, huddled together.

We leave the lake shore and follow the climbing path. Ascending, we pass through an area of cactus. Not much of that in wild UK, maybe just as well as the spines are lethally sharp.

We reach the top, all the while following the clear path between the rocky outcrops. Jane’s, with binoculars at the ready, is scanning for wildlife.

 In the absence of bears or mountain lion, Jane has to settle for a butterfly. But it is an unusual butterfly. It’s a Monarch. These migrate south in their millions from Canada to Mexico, but until a few years ago their final destination was unknown. Now the overwintering areas, upland fir forests in Mexico and Southern California, are logged and protected.

We spot a lizard sunning on the rocks, well camouflaged. Don’t know my lizards, so this can be ID’d as a light brown one, about a foot long.

The notice says, “Beware of Fire Ants”, so we stop to read the perils of their painful stings. Numerous bites can even prove fatal! However, with immense cunning, the fire ants have built a colony at the foot of the warning notice, so that while you are reading it, the fire ants are running up your legs. A few bites are indeed quite sore, but not mortal. Here they are, and let’s have a big round of applause for their ingenuity.

Leaving Inks Park, a photo of two large rocks about to topple into the water. Only problem is, they’ve been like that since the last ice age.

Berry Creek Park is but a short walk from our campsite. It’s less spectacular than Inks Lake, but has some interesting features. The photo below shows large trees planted in straight lines. These are pecan nut trees, and many folks were out harvesting the fallen nuts. We were told that the nuts then need drying in the dark for a month to ripen.

These are the nuts, similar to a small walnut, held in Jane’s hand for scale. Pecan pie is a favourite in America.

And how about this for a strange looking caterpillar, type not known.

Walking back from Berry Creek, we saw what looked like a pair of crested chickens. The bird book identified them as caracara, and very rare in this area. The next day we were excitedly describing this sighting to a local birdwatcher, and were somewhat deflated when he told us that, in recent years with global warming, they were as common as ….chickens. But here’s the picture anyway.

And finally, a friendly pig from the farm running alongside the campsite. There appeared to be a feud between the farm and the campsite as we were warned not to feed them as the pigs break through the fence and create mayhem. The pig looks as if butter wouldn’t melt in its mouth. The breed is a large black that originated in the West County, UK, so nothing exotic, but he doesn’t care.

Up until yesterday, Sunday 14^th Oct, the temperature has been around 30 degrees C. Today, due to a strong northerly air stream, it’s dropped dramatically to 8 C, with torrential rain and gusty winds. And the camper’s leaking, firstly, in a cupboard, but more significantly through the skylight above our bed.

This was “repaired” by Cruise America a few days ago, but clearly ineffectively. That took a week of pestering and a 50 mile round trip to their nearest depot in Austin.

Cruise America are polite and sympathetic over the phone but seem unable or unwilling to act swiftly and effectively. I have just asked them to swap the camper for another one, and as we are moving to another site tomorrow, we need to make the exchange on the way. They made the right noises, but can’t confirm it. We will pursue it in the morning, and tonight we’ll sleep in makeshift beds rather than under the dripping skylight. Watch this space….. 

Fort Croghan

We have moved from East Texas to Central Texas, to the Hill Country.

After Texas joined the United States in 1845 there was much immigration.

The settlers landed in the east and went west by covered wagon, often in convoys known as wagon trains. They fanned out to all parts of the available new territory throughout the USA. This is the type of covered wagon that transported the families’ total possessions.

The wagons were drawn by oxen rather than horses. Oxen were stronger but slower; however, this suited well as all able-bodied travellers walked alongside the wagons and the oxen plodded along at that pace. This is a photo from the archives.

The Hill Country offered good grassland for cattle and reasonable arable land, so settlers came in a steady stream. Problem was, it was Comanche territory and the warlike Comanches, led by Yellow Wolf, meant to defend it. Who can blame them? This is the stuff of my childhood cowboy B movies.

In 1849 the US military was tasked with establishing a fort to protect the settlers. This became Fort Croghan. There was no stockade and the fort community comprised a set of sturdy structures close together. This is one of the original buildings, the fort office and powder house. Not that impressive, but maybe what we need is a few Comanche arrows sticking in the roof and door.

The eyes of the fort was the lookout station, and here again we have the original moved from its position on a nearby hill. It looks somewhat like that essential building all houses used to have at the bottom of the garden.

Buildings from the fort’s era, and a little later, have been moved from their original location and rebuilt. This is a settler’s house with front porch.

It is surprisingly comfortable inside, however, no tele. 

Space could be very limited, though, as the inside of this next one-room cabin shows. A Mr & Mr Kinchloe lived here and raised 11 children.

 A schoolroom was provided, with teacher, paid for by the state. 

Inside the fort museum is a varied collection of memorabilia from the second half of the 19^th Century. For example, dozens of different types of barbed wire. Boring, you might say, but barbed wire was the invention that changed the west. Previously, land was mainly unfenced due to lack of materials like wood and stone to enclose such large areas. Roaming cattle ranchers clashed with dairy and crop farmers. Range wars between the two groups flared frequently. Then barbed wire came along in the 1870s and enabled large boundaries to be enclosed securely and cheaply, so the ranchers were kept off the farmland. The bits of wire themselves are still not that riveting, but having told the tale, a section of the museum’s display has to be shown. Also, you know how to deal with the neighbour’s dog roaming onto your garden. 

As anticipated, there are Native American artefacts, in this case Comanche items, being the local tribe. Two photos follow, of a headdress and then a beaded moccasin.

Another odd display, and seemingly out of place here, is a banjo. But it this is an historically important instrument, being one of only three remaining made by the banjo’s inventor. It dates from 1836. It was brought to this area in 1854 by a relation of one of the settlers to entertain the locals with vocal and instrumental banjo music. Unfortunately, the relation was killed by the Comanches (they couldn’t stand banjo music) but the instrument stayed with the family and was later donated to the museum.

 There were plenty of other household and farming items, but the above tell more unusual tales. The museum is run totally by volunteers who’s enthusiastic and knowledgeable presentation of their treasures brought the history to life for us, and would compare most favourably with the larger and more elitist collections.

Out and About in East Texas

Texans are Texans first, then American. They know the state’s history: they declared independence from Mexico in 1836, initially losing to superior Mexican forces at the Alamo (get those Davy Crockett hats out of the attic) but beating them later in that year. From 1836 to 1845 Texas was an independent republic, adopting the single star flag from which the “Lone Star State” description comes. The lone star symbol appears everywhere either on its own or in the state flag. This owner has painted his garage as the flag.

Practically all the USA countyside is fenced off as private property, with very few public footpaths or rights of way other than in County, State or National Parks. Texans fought harder than most to claim and retain their land, and are sure gonna defend it. This is not an unusual notice.

East Texas is rural with many pleasant small towns, like Rusk below. You perhaps can’t read the sign on the bottom right: “Ammo Sold Here”. Guns are part of Texan culture, as you might expect, but we haven’t noticed them much in evidence or being openly carried as they are legally entitled to do in this state.

 Housing standards vary more in the USA than in the UK. There are large numbers of residential trailer parks and most of the sites we stay on have a substantial permanent element. There are also many magnificent houses, like the one shown next and a good number of solid brick homes set in pleasant neighbourhoods.

At the lower end are the individual cabin type dwellings with some land. There are large numbers of these, of widely varying designs, everywhere in the south where winters are short and mild.

The various parks mentioned earlier are generally well maintained and have good walking and cycling paths. The downside is there is always a drive to get there, but Americans drive everywhere so that wouldn’t be viewed as a problem. The first park shown below is Tyler State Park, with a pretty  lake that we walked around.

Next up, Jim Hogg Park, with tall trees and woodland glades.

The parks are often located in places of local historical significance, in this case the Jim Hogg settlement. Good old Jim, whoever he was. The house is a reconstruction but the equipment outside is original- it’s for crushing sugar cane. Sugar cane is a semi-tropical crop and it is easy to forget how far south we are here. We are on the same latitude as Agadir in Morocco.

This part of East Texas is called the piney woods, rolling hills and lush grass. The downside is heat and humidity in summer, but it makes for great cattle rearing country. We end with a photo of a Mexican wedding photoshoot against a backdrop of those wooded hills and technicolour grass.