Wed 18th Feb: San Diego

We travel 170 miles to “Campland on the Bay" in San Diego without incident.

The following day we catch the bus to San Diego Old Town, which is a California State Park and consists of restored and reconstructed buildings dating mainly from the 1820’s to the 1870’s. The object of the park is to present a range of different living styles and capture something of the atmosphere of what life was like for residents of San Diego during that era. Naturally, parts of the town resemble the cowboy towns we remember from westerns, but the Park structures have a proper historical base rather than being simply a film set.

The building nearest in the above photo is the Racine and Laramie tobacco store, reconstructed faithfully as it was in 1869. Inside were all the appropriate products that gave it a truly authentic feel, including tobacco pipes of all qualities from many parts of the world.

There are too many buildings to describe in detail, so I’ll select a few, starting with the Wells Fargo History Museum. The exhibits contained a genuine 1867 state-of-the-art Concord stage coach that featured a sprung passenger compartment that could hold 9 travellers, with a further 9 on top. 

In 1857 the company launched the first trans-continental service, from St Louis to San Francisco. It must have been desperately uncomfortable although there was apparently a degree of acclimatisation to the motion sickness of the swaying carriage along its journey of 2,757 miles and 25 days.

The coach rolled along at between 5 and 12 miles per hour almost continuously with changes of horses (or mules) every 18 or so miles. I’ll never complain about Cambridgeshire buses again, even if one of the operators is, coincidentally, called Stagecoach!

An earlier and more primitive carriage, really a cart, was featured in the Stables Museum. The photo is below. This is a wooden carreta made in 1806 that reputedly carried a Spanish lady from San Francisco to San Diego, taking three months. It sported a weatherproof cover but no springs. The expression numb bum comes to mind.

The Stables Museum generally contained a wealth of beautifully preserved exhibits from the mid-19^th Century, like branding irons, an Indian feather headdress, patent medicines, a large variety of carts and carriages, etc. Just picking an example, here’s an exquisite, ornately embroidered saddle.

The earliest buildings in the Park date from the Mexican period, 1822 to 1846. These are made from adobe i.e. mud bricks. The most elaborate of these is the 1827 Casa de Estudillo, built by Jose Maria de Estudillio, a local administrator and dignitary. It’s a walled courtyard house that takes a splendid photo with the lady sitting in period costume in its pretty garden.

The cemetery reminds us of the tough life they faced in the 19^th century. Many died young from disease, and others violently in a manner that fits our image of the Wild West. 

The Park also contains an area of later dwellings, in the Heritage Park Victorian Village. These are from the 1880’s and 90’s, and represent the homes of the wealthier inhabitants, and fine homes they are too. You can’t help wondering if the house with the lookout tower belonged to the local fire-chief.

Towards the end of our meanderings, we pass a car park, and do a double-take. This car is totally decked out with Christmas decorations and articles. On the bonnet, too! The car bodywork is daubed with Christmas scenes and messages. Inside it’s totally full of Christmas baubles and articles, apart from the driver’s seat. It has to be Father Christmas on vacation. Surely it couldn’t be driven? But we actually saw it, impossibly, on the road the following day not far from our campsite, a good 5 miles from this car park.

It had to be a great day out: how often do you have a close encounter with the Wild West and Santa Claus in the same day.

Monday 16th Feb: Joshua Tree National Park

The park was created in 1994 and consists of part Mojave Desert and part Colorado Desert, 1,234 sq. miles in total. Next question- what’s a Joshua tree? We’d never heard of it either, so we’d best show you a photo. Everywhere we went there were Joshua trees, thousands upon thousands of them.

The tree is part of the Yucca family and can reach 40 ft. tall. It grows only in the Mojave Desert, and was named by the Mormon settlers who connected it in some way to Joshua in the Bible. The Park Ranger at the visitor centre said the park contains the biggest Joshua tree in the world. Our initial reaction was, “Gee, that’s really something”, until sometime later when the penny dropped- the world’s total population of Joshua trees actually grows here in the park, so one of them must be….

First stop was the Hidden Valley, supposedly used by 19^th century cattle rustlers. Access was along a rocky path through the jumble of rocks between the two higher outcrops.

Once inside, the valley floor was fairly flat, but circled by the granite boulder cliffs. Some of these were challenging enough to attract climbing groups, for example, the two small figures, top right. At least we hope that’s who they were rather than some of the OAP bus outing that took the wrong path.  

 Entering into the climbing spirit, I ascended a grade 1 difficulty tree (not a Joshua tree but an unidentified dead tree) for a photo. One of those, “I’ll take one of you, if you’ll take one of us”, type of photos that we tourists do at the drop of a hat. It appears that Jane is giving me a piggy back but I’m in fact stood on a branch all of 3 ft.from the ground.

Now here’s a precariously balanced armchair rock. How did it ever get there? No doubt it was used by the rustlers to relax in while looking out for the sheriff and the posse.

Leaving hidden valley we drove along good tarmac roads through similar rock formations and Joshua trees. Some of the rocks have acquired names like skull rock, standing about 30 ft.tall. A relic of the time when giants roamed the Earth. 

The road gradually winds up to a viewpoint at 5,300 ft. It’s a huge panorama, or would have been in the absence of mist, all the way to Mexico. Our campsite is somewhere down there.

The road loops eventually back to the main road and back to the campsite in the mist.  So we saw another aspect of the desert and very interesting it was.

On Wednesday we move to San Diego 

Sunday 15th Feb: The Oasis

The San Andreas Fault has some other side-effects. In a few places water seeps to the surface through the fault line thereby creating an oasis. Such an example is to be found only a few miles from the campsite: the Thousand Palms Oasis, managed by the State.

The pools of water are surrounded by Californian Fan Palm trees. This is the only palm native to California although a closely related palm from just over the Mexican border also grows in the oasis. Jane’s saying her palms are related only to her hands.

 Both types of palm present a shaggy appearance due to the previous year’s fronds falling down in layers as the tree grows in height. The walkway below looks like it’s passing under a (tuskless) woolly mammoth’s head. Notice how sturdily the wooden walkway is made, an example of how well the park is run. Even the woolly mammoth looks well groomed.

As might be expected, the park habitat provides a lush environment for numerous birds and creatures. Being a holiday weekend when we visited, the park was busy, so the wildlife made itself scarce. We were fortunate enough to spot a cactus wren in a palm tree near the entrance. It’s much bigger than an English wren and coloured more like a starling.

You don’t have to move far from the water source for the desert scrub to reassert itself. Within 50 metres we’re back to powdery earth and  bleached out thorn bushes like the one below. However, the informative park label states that it’s a dye weed, used by Native Americans to produce a yellow dye, something you just would not have guessed.

So an interesting visit, reminding us of oases we saw in Morocco.

We carried on after to Walmart for grocery shopping, and then driving by Palm Springs airport on the way back. President Obama had flown in the day before for a few days’ vacation, and I took an opportunist snap of his official plane, Airforce One, as we drove past. It’s a bit far away, and getting dark, but here it is for what it’s worth. We were hoping to take one of the man himself but he never dropped by for a cup of tea. There again, maybe we were out. 

Wed 11th: Desert Hot Springs

We travel 150 miles inland to our next destination, Desert Hot Springs. It is part of the Sonoran Desert and, with neighbouring Palm Springs, has seen much residential development since the Second World War due to its dry, pleasant winter climate. Summer’s another matter, when highs can reach over 50 centigrade (120F).

Our large campsite, Sky Valley Resort, caters mainly for resident and long-term campers but has a small number of touring pitches. This is our row, with our pitch behind the camera, looking towards the permanent chalets, with the desert mountains in the background.

Step just outside the camp perimeter and we’re straight in the desert. The whole area is criss-crossed by dirt tracks so it’s possible to walk indefinitely. This is a typical dramatic view of the sparse scrub and barren mountains. To complete the atmosphere, It really needs a lone, dusty cowboy with an Indian arrow through his hat to be galloping up from the middle distance. With Tonto at his side, of course.

But riders we had aplenty, cycle riders, coming past the camp entrance on the 100 mile Tour de Palm charity race on Valentine’s Day. Up to 10,000 entrants take part, starting from Palm Springs. These are just a few of the heroes coping with the inclines and 85 degree heat.

There is a good reason for the campsite being at this precise spot. It is directly on the San Andreas Fault which creates hot mineral water underground reservoirs that the site taps into. The water emerges at 140 degrees Fahrenheit and is cooled to 90 for the main pool and 104 for the jacuzzis. So whatever the weather, you can enjoy the water- and we did. You may, of course, wake to find that the campsite has cracked in two during the night, but everything has its price. The pools are located behind the landscaped gardens.

On one of our local desert walks we unexpectedly came across a local community centre. Unexpectedly, because we hadn’t noticed any community above a few widely scattered houses. Small community it may be, but with a friendly “welcome” sign. Immediately pulling the rug from under our feet, we spot the tree notice “NO TRESPASSING”, and then the one behind the cactus that reads “POSTED, NO TRESPASSING, KEEP OUT”. Maybe that’s why it’s a small community: you’re welcome as long as you don’t enter! 

Palm trees make good sunset silhouettes, so this photo makes a nice sign-off.

Santa Monica

Santa Monica is the nearest part of metropolitan Los Angeles to our Malibu campsite, and runs as a separate city. We visited it several times on the bus that was both frequent and cheap.

The city sets out to be an up an upmarket seaside resort and, in my view, succeeds. This is part of the wide beach, with its famous pier where Route 66 officially finished. It was 2448 miles long (Route 66, not the pier) and started in Chicago.

You can’t travel the length of the original Route 66 today because most of it has disappeared, replaced by freeways and other road improvements. In fact, the road designation was officially removed in 1985. However, it’s still part of US folklore, even to these old rockers posing outside the Route 66 visitor centre. Would they still be able to handle their kicks on Route 66, I ask myself?

The town centre gives a pleasing art deco appearance as can be seen from the pedestrianised main shopping street. 

As expected in a tourist town, there are numerous busking acts. These appeared to be of good quality, in keeping with the town’s image. The one featured below is an unusual one: dad+ two small sons combo producing some very acceptable music. 

Just to show the variety, here’s a small brass band consisting of youngsters that played sad Mexican style music, again very competently.

California is an eco state, so the LA area buses run on propane gas, as do some of the about-town cop vehicles. This one looks like a turbo charged futuristic golf cart. Perhaps the officer is allowed to use it on the golfcourse when he’s off duty.   

If you’re into snazzy design, look no further than this car park. Much more colourful than our usual UK drab concrete multi-storeys, but then maybe paying $15 a day you’d expect a designer place to park. Personally, I’ll use the free waste ground!

 Santa Monica had a good feel to it, nowhere near as brash and busy as most of LA. From here we head inland to the desert.

Mon 9th Feb: Los Angeles

Los Angeles is too big and complicated to do a self-visit, especially in the motorhome, so we decided to take a guided tour. I’ll take you round in the order we did it.

First off, the tour ran past some celebs homes in posh, well-manicured suburbs. The homes that you could see, because they were smaller, were owned by celebs we’d never heard of, and those big names that everybody knows, like Spielberg, were so set back and security fenced that they were almost invisible. Here’s an example of one we could just about make out- so perhaps the owner is just a star rather than a mega star.

Oddly, some of the big film star names of the post war period occupied relatively modest homes. Gene Kelly was a top actor, dancer, singer (Singing in the Rain) and, later, director, but you wouldn’t guess that from his house. Not that it’s at all bad, just not fabulous.

It’s only a sign, but it does say Beverley Hills. It was developed after 1914 when a group of oil prospectors, finding water instead of oil, decided to promote the area as residential. It caught on quickly with screen stars like Douglas Fairbanks, Rudolph Valentino and Charlie Chaplin moving in and building mansions. Later residents included Frank Sinatra, Elvis, Richard Nixon, Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston.

The tour guide told us an amusing story about Chaplin. At the height of his fame he happened to hear of a contest to find the best Charlie Chaplin impersonator, and, for a bit of fun, decided to enter under an assumed name. He came third!

The next drive-by is The Beverley Hills Hotel on Sunset Boulevard. It has welcomed guests like the Duke & Duchess of Windsor, John Wayne, and The Beatles. For those who remember the 70’s hit Hotel California by the Eagles, this hotel featured on the album cover, but it’s unclear whether it’s the sinister hotel the lyrics refer to.

The wealthy and famous have to shop somewhere in keeping with their status. That somewhere is Rodeo Drive, right in their neighbourhood, and this is a typical section of the shopping area.

The street is full of exclusive names, the most exclusive of which is jewellers Harry Winston. Fabulous stones can also be hired for special events, unless of course you are an ‘A’ list celeb like, say, Jennifer Aniston, in which case they pay you to wear the gems in return for a mention in the right places. Winston’s looks more like a bank than a store, but then I suppose that’s what it really is.

Not actually in ultra-high class Rodeo Drive, as its appearance is more down-market, is a store that caters exclusively for adored dogs. It’s called The Bakery For Dogs. What looks like toddler clothes on the front pillar are all doggy outfits. Inside is an Aladdin’s cave of OTT stuff from pampered poochland. 

Next comes Sunset Strip, part of Sunset Boulevard, and this is where many performers launched their careers in its clubs and cabaret venues. In daylight it looks a bit garish, even sleazy. Whisky a Gogo is one of the top clubs and has featured artistes like Neil Diamond, the Byrds, the Doors etc. The guide gave us equally famous acts coming along later but the names didn’t register as I’m stuck in a 60’s (70’s at a push) musical time warp.

We drive past some studios, Paramount, Universal, Fox, but not very photogenic. The one snap I did want was Jim Henson Productions studio- that’s the Muppets- but I botched the photo by cutting off the top of Kermit’s head on the gates.

Now to the financial district, the only skyscraper area in LA. These buildings all have to be earthquake proofed by being mounted on shock absorbers. They experience slight tremors quite frequently; the last major quake was in 1994. From here on we try not to feel worried by the bus shuddering from the bumps in the road.

At the edge of the financial district is the Walt Disney Concert Hall, home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic. It’s a most unusual modern design with highly acclaimed acoustics. Not clear where the door is; in case you can’t find it, take a tin opener.  

The tour bus then went from the futuristic concert hall to the oldest building in LA. The original settlement of Los Angeles was founded in 1781, when California was part of Spanish controlled Mexico, by 11 families who built the church of Nuestra Senora de Los Angeles (our Lady of the angels),. In time, the name became shortened to Los Angeles. This is their church.

Hollywood was the last port of call. The bus dropped us on Hollywood Boulevard, on the Walk of Fame where over 2,000 stars’ names have been set in a star in the pavement. 

The square in front of the Chinese Theatre farther along the Boulevard contains cement foot and hand prints of specially selected stars like Elizabeth Taylor and Anthony Hopkins. Jane (centre top, light hat) appears to be stuck in some quick-drying cement.

And, of course, we completed with a view of the Hollywood sign. Erected in 1923 by estate agents, it originally read Hollywoodland. In 1949 the Chamber of Commerce had the sign shortened to Hollywood, and then in 1978 it was completely replaced due to deterioration. The new sign was financed by Hugh Hefner, founder of Playboy magazine, with the 45 foot high lettering we see today. Access to the sign itself is restricted following suicides by jumping off the top of the letters, which can be easily climbed via the supporting scaffolding at the back.

Phew! Apologies for the extra-long blog, but it was a long tour.