AltamIra: 21st February

The Altamira cave paintings were designated a World Heritage Site in 1985. The caves themselves were discovered in 1868, and from 1879 an archaeologist called de Sautuola started examining the paintings on a scientific basis. He was the first to propose that paintings of this type, also being discovered elsewhere in Europe and Africa, were from pre-history, in this case late Stone Age. Other experts disagreed as they believed that people of those times had neither the talent nor imagination to create such fine works of art.

A few examples below illustrate the quality of the work, notably the use of charcoal and red ochre to produce colour. The first animal is recognisably a bison, and the second a deer.

Modern research has of course confirmed that de Sautuola was right: these works are from the Stone Age (no Flintstone jokes, please), more precisely from 15,000 to 13,000 years ago.

It appears they had a technique for blowing paint onto the walls enabling hand outlines to be created.

The above photos are all authentic reproductions rather than originals. Cave visits were unrestricted until 1977 when it was clear that the volume of visitors was substantially affecting the condition of the paintings. The caves were then closed completely to the public, but since then small numbers only are allowed to see the originals. Currently, 5 visitors are chosen each Friday by ballot and taken on a 90 minute tour, all kitted out in special overalls and shoes. We weren’t lucky in the selection, but the Brit lady next to us was first out of the hat.

We did however see examples of the painstaking excavations where different levels reveal occupation artifact from different dates.

Most of the finds are very fragile, but some remarkably complete objects have emerged. This flute, made of animal bone, is from the period 38,000 to 28,000 years ago.

From a slightly more recent period is this selection of harpoons.

Now two more carvings from this same later period, 28,000 to 18,000 years ago.

Both were carved and decorated for art’s sake, and the flute was to make music. Just because these folks had no written language doesn’t mean they were savages. They would have had a spoken language, with customs and practices passed down by stories and word of mouth. In fact, a life-style similar to primitive tribes surviving to within recent times e.g. the Eskimos, the Aborigines, the Bushmen of the Kalahari.

So maybe the modern day sophistications depicted in the Flintstones cartoon weren’t too far off the mark!

North Coast of Spain: 20th Feb

It’s a bright, sunny day, so we go for a sightseeing drive along the coast. Our first impression is of empty roads and pretty villages, some with distinctive features like this church.

The Atlantic coast provides some fine, sandy beaches, and the day is warm enough at our first stop for a party of schoolchildren to be playing on the sand. The warm weather is perhaps misleading as the campsite receptionist tells us that the main season is the same as in the UK: June, July and August. This accounts for the deserted campsite.

Further along we pause by an inlet, part of a bird sanctuary, that looks almost tropical

We are heading towards the small town of San Vicente de la Barquera, getting a fine view of the snow-covered Picos de Europa before we drop down into the fishing port.

The town is more than just a port: there is an ancient stronghold on the hill from where the above photo was taken, with water on three sides and a defensive wall.The next photo shows its impregnable position.

We decide we will assault the stronghold. On the way, walking through the modern town, we pass an unusual avenue of trees where the overhead branches have been grafted together to form a continuous canopy. No doubt keeps the Mayor and civic dignitaries cool during summer processions.

We puff on up to the 13^th century church, but can’t look inside as it’s not open until later. Photo underneath. The building on the right,with the sailing ship on the wall, is a school. What looks like an info plaque on the bottom right of the ship is actually a satellite disc, so we don’t know why it’s there. Maybe signifies that the ship traded sat discs instead of beads with the natives of newly explored lands.

The church stands at the end of the hill and the town wall: it looks even more fortress-like from that side.

Looking the other way, off the headland, is a great view showing the commanding elevation and the surrounding water. The panorama of the Picos mountains that we saw on the way is apparently equally breathtaking from here, but the Picos are now entirely shrouded in mist. It was a mist opportunity.

We drive back from San Vicente after another splendid day in northern Spain, normally sadly overlooked as we dash to the sun spots of the south. 

France & Spain Feb 2020: The Start

We planned to leave home on Monday 10^th February but the weekend storms and high winds hung on. The weather forecast predicted a calmer few days mid-week before another storm, storm Dennis, hit. So come Wednesday we go for it, but buffeting winds along the Calais to Boulogne motorway forced us to shelter for the night at a local campsite.

Since then it’s been good travelling, and we are now in the province of Cantabria, northern Spain. This is our pitch at Camping Santillana, a large but totally deserted site. It’s like our own private field, complete with long grass,  trees and soft earth, all of which made pitching difficult. But what a lovely view, and the beautiful small town of Santillana del Mar lies within walking distance!

Next morning we follow the cobbled road connecting the campsite to Santillana. The town is reputedly a medieval time capsule, although the two hotels in the photo, while attractive, don’t look that ancient.

We path arrives in one of the town squares. Santillana grew around its 12^th century church, which we will see shortly, and became a settlement for noblemen made wealthy mainly from trade and plunder from the New World after its discovery by Columbus in 1492.

The whole place presents a consistently ancient appearance, supported by planning laws in operation since 1575 to preserve the integrity of the town.

It’s worth looking at the detail at some of the coats of arms on the building facades. The craftsmanship is skilled and intricate.

 The jewel in the crown is the 12^th century church of Santa Juliana that gave the town its name. Differing accounts say it was preceded by a hermitage or a monastery. The blue van probably dates from a little later.

To prove the town was occupied by real inhabitants, there is a picturesque clothes washing area. Not so romantic for the ladies who did the laundry in all seasons.

In the square behind the church is the impressive 16^th century Palace Velarde. It looks like a two-dimensional film set in the photo, but is actually very atmospheric. Any film directors looking for a good Dracula movie location?

Santillana delivered just what the guide books claimed: an authentic medieval experience. Disappointingly, and unusually, neither the travel guides nor the internet could provide much detailed history of the town or specific buildings. There has to be an opportunity here for some fascinating reading.

Now a stroll back up the cobbled way to the campsite for lunch.