Cuenca City

Cuenca is really two cities. The lower town is the modern half; the old city is perched high up with precipices on two sides. It has Roman roots and was occupied by the Moors, but until the reconquest by the Christians in 1177, its history is vague. The castle dominates the highest part, and the city developed downwards from there into the layout we see today. The photo underneath was taken from the castle and shows the city’s dramatic position on the cliff edge.

We parked by the castle as it was free. Free, that is, apart from a scruffy man who claimed to be the attendant. Worth a couple of euros to make sure your tyres weren’t let down. So down we go through the town gate into old town.

Lots of medieval alleyways like this, generously adorned with religious images as befits a Catholic country.

We were following the path down, just alongside the cliff edge. The houses were very tall in some places, 5 or 6 storeys high. The flimsy wooden supports upholding this house are set in modern concrete, but how safe would you feel in past times?

We arrived at the footbridge that spans the gorge. The building on the opposite side was a Dominican convent, dating from the 16^th century. It is now a Parador, one of a chain of hotels run by the Spanish government in old and historic premises. What a great way to preserve fine buildings that would otherwise go to rack and ruin.

We walked across the bridge and on the way back took in the fine view of some of Cuenca’s famous “hanging houses” (casas colgadas). The balconies look the most at risk. The nearer balconies belong to a restaurant, so you could experience a “death by chocolate” dessert in more ways than one!

We head for a lunch of tapas in the central square, sitting under one of the umbrella sunshades. The air temperature is cooler up here but the direct sun is powerfully intense.

Our last bit of sightseeing for the day is the cathedral, which is entered through the central square.

It was started in 1183, soon after the reconquest from the Moors, and was the first Gothic cathedral in Spain. It was constructed on the site of the great mosque, of which there is little remaining evidence. The central courtyard with its fountain is perhaps a connection with those times as Arab planners would always feature water in their important buildings.

Otherwise, the interior is relatively unremarkable compared to the great cathedrals of Spain. But here is a beautifully worked geometric ceiling worth showing. In many of the great medieval buildings of Europe, ceilings and upper parts contain the most intricate work of carvings, statues and paintings, which are difficult to view because of their high location. Maybe you got the best view after an over- generous helping of communion wine.

Now plod back up the hill to the castle car park. On the way, we noticed on a church wall, an example of these strange elongated figures that we have seen in many locations in Spain, religious and otherwise.

Nearly back at the car park we found a large gathering of bikers who clearly see the twisting roads in the vicinity as an interesting challenge ride and meet up here either during or afterwards. There was also a gay wedding celebration centred on the cafes near the castle, but we thought it too intrusive to take photos, so you’ll have to make do with the bikers.

Before getting back into the car (tyres all fully inflated!), we looked up the gorge away from the direction of the city, into the wild back countryside. It’s picturesque and inviting on a lovely spring day but in wintertime must have been a bitter, hash environment for the inhabitants in past times. 

So that’s Cuenca, most interesting, and highly recommended for a visit.

 

To Cuenca: Wed 16th May

 We have now left Los Madriles where we spent nearly two months thoroughly enjoying walks, activities and friends. We’re in new territory at Cuenca, so the blog restarts.

The campsite is about 5 miles from the city and pleasantly located in woodland. This was our pitch, and hoped it didn’t rain because it’s mainly bare earth that could turn to mud.

Tur first trip was to the Ciudad Encantada – the Enchanted City. It’s a walk round many huge and unusual rock shapes that can be imagined to be objects, animals or people. It starts with what most folks would describe as a mushroom – but why doesn’t it fall over? It must be a magic mushroom!

This next one is the stern of a ship, about 30 feet high. 

And now a Roman bridge. The tree is behind, not growing through the stone.

However, here’s a tree that is growing on bare rock. It is not be surprising to see rockery type small plants growing on the rocks, but this is a fir tree about 8 feet tall. An info board (in English) tells us that trees that take root on the rocks grow as dwarf or bonsai specimens due to the lack of normal nutrition.

This formation is called the convent door. Figures emerging are disappointingly not nuns but just visitors like ourselves. 

We are in this photo together, courtesy of one of a passing Spanish group. We have coats on because it’s cold, being in the central Spanish plain at about 4,000 feet.

Just one more rock image to stretch your imagination – the two bears. There are literally dozens of these rock shapes, but we’ll stop here before they become too repetitive. It’s quite different when you’re there and can appreciate the scale of the rock formations and look at them from different angles.

We returned to the campsite by a different route, and stopped at a car park of an indicated viewpoint. This is the view of the river gorge as we approached the viewing platform.

Here is he platform. It wouldn’t have looked out of place in rock city.

Can you spot the tiny climber on the left-hand cliff? 

But there’s more going on than is first apparent on the cliff face. We spotted a big bird on one of the ledges.

The camera lens shows it to be a parent and chick. The info board tells us that these are Griffon Vultures, one of the largest, with a wingspan of up to 9 feet!

The cliff face is full of them when you look through binoculars. This one is on the nest.

There are many more on the cliff face, but they are more impressive when flying, 

There were Egyptian vultures too, but they wisely stayed in the distance. Must make sure we don’t nod off sat outside in the chairs on campsite in the afternoon sun with these super scavengers about!

Aguilas: April 2023

Aguilas is a coastal town about 30 miles from our base at Los Madriles. In common with most of the settlements around the Med., Aguilas has a long history. Starting with prehistoric remains, it was settled by the Romans, the Carthaginians and the Iberians. Then, in the 8^th century, came the Arab occupation that lasted until the catholic reconquest in 1253 by Ferdinand and Isabella. 

There were further setbacks in the 18^th century when a burst dam killed 600 residents, and then an earthquake. The main industry, mining, flourished until tourism started in the 1970’s. Today it’s patronised by largely Spanish tourists in the part of the town developed for that purpose.

The old town still looks very Arab in appearance although none of the buildings would date back to the Moorish occupation.

Although an interesting town to visit, our reason for coming was to spend the day with Ray and Diane, our next-door neighbours when we lived in Alconbury. They moved to Spain two years ago and have a house near Valencia and a park home a few miles inland from Aguilas.

Our friends suggested we visit the castle, an imposing fortress overlooking the town and the sea.

Unfortunately, the castle itself was closing as we reached the top but we had great views like this one of the harbour.

Ray pointed out some rock shapes that were supposed to have given the town its name: Aguilas means eagles. Couldn’t really make it out – maybe upside-down eagles?

 We climbed down from the castle to the main square, in a delightful setting with trees and shrubs, surrounded by old buildings. 

Plenty of café tables in the square, so we sat a while over café con leche, taking in the scenery and passers-by. This enormous ficus plant was worthy of a photo, with Jane and Diane in front for scale.

 

After lunch we followed Ray and Diane 5 miles back inland to their park home. The plot was large and well laid out, and the other dwellings were of different designs giving a pleasant appearance to the park.

Also, lovely mountain views from the garden.

A good day out: having visited a different town and a catch up with old friends at the same time!