France & Spain Feb 2020: The Start

We planned to leave home on Monday 10^th February but the weekend storms and high winds hung on. The weather forecast predicted a calmer few days mid-week before another storm, storm Dennis, hit. So come Wednesday we go for it, but buffeting winds along the Calais to Boulogne motorway forced us to shelter for the night at a local campsite.

Since then it’s been good travelling, and we are now in the province of Cantabria, northern Spain. This is our pitch at Camping Santillana, a large but totally deserted site. It’s like our own private field, complete with long grass,  trees and soft earth, all of which made pitching difficult. But what a lovely view, and the beautiful small town of Santillana del Mar lies within walking distance!

Next morning we follow the cobbled road connecting the campsite to Santillana. The town is reputedly a medieval time capsule, although the two hotels in the photo, while attractive, don’t look that ancient.

We path arrives in one of the town squares. Santillana grew around its 12^th century church, which we will see shortly, and became a settlement for noblemen made wealthy mainly from trade and plunder from the New World after its discovery by Columbus in 1492.

The whole place presents a consistently ancient appearance, supported by planning laws in operation since 1575 to preserve the integrity of the town.

It’s worth looking at the detail at some of the coats of arms on the building facades. The craftsmanship is skilled and intricate.

 The jewel in the crown is the 12^th century church of Santa Juliana that gave the town its name. Differing accounts say it was preceded by a hermitage or a monastery. The blue van probably dates from a little later.

To prove the town was occupied by real inhabitants, there is a picturesque clothes washing area. Not so romantic for the ladies who did the laundry in all seasons.

In the square behind the church is the impressive 16^th century Palace Velarde. It looks like a two-dimensional film set in the photo, but is actually very atmospheric. Any film directors looking for a good Dracula movie location?

Santillana delivered just what the guide books claimed: an authentic medieval experience. Disappointingly, and unusually, neither the travel guides nor the internet could provide much detailed history of the town or specific buildings. There has to be an opportunity here for some fascinating reading.

Now a stroll back up the cobbled way to the campsite for lunch.