May 2nd: Caballos del Vino, Caravaca

Moroccan Arabs and Berbers, known as the Moors, invaded Spain in 711 and over the next few hundred years conquered almost the entire country. They were, by and large, sophisticated and tolerant rulers. However, they were Muslim and this was the age of the crusades so there were constant campaigns against them, and they were gradually driven out by the Christians. The last Moorish kingdom, Granada, fell in 1492.

In these latter days, Caravaca was on the border of the kingdom of Granada, so was subject to frequent changes of occupation by Moors or Christian depending on the fortunes of war. On one particular occasion, under siege by the Moors, the town had nearly run out of water. Calling for volunteers to run the enemy lines and seek water from the countryside, numerous horsemen came forth. As they had received the blessing of the Blessed Virgin Mary, all succeeded in getting through the siege, but were unsuccessful in obtaining water. However, would you believe, there was plentiful wine to be had and all the horses returned, fully laden with wine having crossed the encircling enemy unscathed.

The festivities of May 2nd each year commemorate this indisputably miraculous event with a parade of wonderfully decorated horses, the wine horses, the caballos del vino of the title. After the parade, the horses are raced individually up to the castle with 4 accompanying runners who hold on to straps attached to the horse’s saddle. There are around 30 horses and each horse is timed so a winner can be finally proclaimed after much cheering, jeering and wine consumption (remember, caballos del VINO!).

The parade also features the Sultan and Sultana with units of Moorish troops, and then the equivalent Christian forces together with the Spanish King and Queen, Ferdinand and Isabella, who made that final conquest of Granada. Later on, in the evening, a mock battle between the two forces is staged. Our bus left before this re-enactment took place, but you will note that many of the crusaders are clutching cans of San Miguel beer and we believe that the use of these as missiles must have been what had swung the battle in favour of the Christians all those years ago because the Muslims, being non-drinkers, only had plastic cups.