March 13th to 19th: Marrakech

This is one of the two main symbols of Marrakech, the Koutoubia Minaret, part of a 12th century, beautifully proportioned mosque. It hovers over that other symbol, the Djemma El Fna square, full of performers like acrobats, healers, African bands, snake charmers and numerous hustlers.


Leading northwards off the square are the souks: every kind of market activity imaginable. This is the kingdom of the hard sell and you are likely to be dragged into an emporium and come out with an overpriced purchase you had previously decided you definitely wouldn’t be buying. I mean, where in a caravan can you display 6 ornamental camels, and badly made ones at that.
These people are experts and no one is immune, including us hard-nuts as we thought we were. A helpful lad showed us to an area where the dyers worked, as it so happened right next door to his brother’s herbalist shop, and would we mind popping in just to look - that’s a favourite, that one. The brother was knowledgeable and charming, and we all bought remedies for ailments we hadn’t got but were sure we had at the time. My ointment would certainly cure trench feet- if only I had been at the front in the First World War. All part of the fun! Back in the souk, maybe the genies in these lamps sneak out as you brush past and addle your brain.

The city has some interesting museums, beautifully decorated as for example these pillars from the Marrakech Museum, formerly a palace. Historical buildings and museums here generally don’t contain the number of exhibits as the in the UK, and the standard of presentation and description is nowhere near as professional. There again, entrance charges are often just 10 dirhams (80p), so you can’t expect too much.

All the palaces we visited had many beautiful and intricate ceilings. The following example looks like a carpet, but is carved and coloured wood suspended 20 feet in the air. I’m never sure why so much effort and expense was expended in creating these works of art, as the ceilings are always high and dark. The best viewing position would be lying flat on the floor with a high power torch.

Marrakech is Morocco, but an extreme version of it, and is better visited after being in the country for a while to accustom yourself to the sights, sounds and selling conventions, but that's not a foolproof strategy by any means. Any offers for 6 "superbly crafted" camels and a jar of foot rot cream?