Toledo is an atmospheric old city on a rocky headland, surrounded on three sides by the river Tagus. It was founded by the Romans and occupied by the Moors from 711 to 1012 when it was retaken by the Christians. The first photo shows the Moorish fortress, the Alcazar, which has been much modified in the last 1,000 years. Looks a bit Disney now. We entered the city over the 13thC bridge- the next photo- and climbed up to the city through the Alcazar gardens.
The first few souvenir shops you come to reveal Toledo’s industrial past. It was the Sheffield of Spain, a high-grade steel producer specialising in knives and swords. So the tourist shops are full of hunting knives and reproduction swords, at prices indicating Far Eastern manufacture, and grotesque metal Don Quixotes with the appearance of recycled teaspoons. We passed numerous such shops during the afternoon, so somebody must buy them. See an example of a display window below.
More authentic examples of Toledo metalwork were the embossed metal plaques and plates, also on sale everywhere. The next photo is of a craftsman etching a delicate pattern onto an ornamental disc with a punch. Thousands of perfectly controlled impacts. Let’s hope his watch is shockproof.
The cathedral exterior is large and ornate, and is awarded 3 stars in the Michelin Guide to Spain. This is the Michelin top mark, and even more of an accolade because Michelin seem particularly stingey in awarding merit stars for any attractions outside of France. In France, good toilets get 3 ***.
We entered the cathedral by a side entrance to find we were in a small roped-off area that allowed us to see some of the interior. A notice informed us that we could visit the whole cathedral on payment of 7 euros per person. The part visible to us didn’t look that exciting, very bare and austere, so we thought 7 euros poor value and left. By comparison, all the beautiful churches of Italy, including St Peters in Rome, are free entry.
So this is us later on, in the courtyard of another religious building, the El Transito Synagogue. I had to agree with Jane’s comment that the white stands supporting the sculptures on either side of us looked like refurbished old fridges. The synagogue itself was interesting, with one huge wall completely decorated in fine Moorish symbols, Mundejar decoration as it’s called. I’m not sure how Moorish, i.e. Muslim, depictions end up in a Jewish Synagogue. Maybe they got it in Mundejar clearance week, or swapped a spare set of 10 Commandment tablets for it?
There was also a museum of Jewish history, culture and religious customs that was very well presented. We would have been happy to pay the 3 euros printed on the board outside, but as our entrance was after 4 pm, there was no charge. Toledo cathedral management, please take note.
We walked back to the car on a lovely footpath running alongside the river, and sometimes high above it, being cut into the cliff face at these points. Then back to Aranjuez to face the music, quite literally, after a most enjoyable afternoon out.
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