The Vatican State

To many people, St Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican are one and the same, but the Vatican is much more: it is the power-base of the Catholic Church. As well as being the spiritual leader, the figurehead of that powerbase is the Pope. So it was with a sense of purpose that we went to see the Pope deliver his Sunday blessing at mid-day. This is us, waiting for mid-day, with several thousand others in the huge St Peter’s Square.

Everyone has a clear view of the Pope as he appears from an upper window of his apartment, to the right just off camera. He delivers his blessing in numerous languages, including English, and there is much inter-reaction as people cheer when it’s their language’s turn. We did feel a sense of occasion, separate from any religious context.

In past times, the Vatican’s political power put the Pope and his administration at risk from invading armies. The Vatican buildings themselves were not designed as fortifications, but Castel Sant Angelo half a mile away, also part of the Vatican’s domain, certainly was. So a “secret passage” was constructed giving the Pope and his staff the chance to dash to the safety of the castle when the going got rough. It’s not much a secret as the line of the passage can be easily defined by following the ventilation slits in the wall leading to the castle. It’s interesting to speculate whether they held time trials with the Pope and Cardinals to ensure speedy evacuation, cheering the winner past the finishing tape. Only small bets allowed of course.

Our next topic has nothing to do with the Vatican, at least I hope not! The Mafia. Not much in the news these days, and maybe its because of the success of the organisation behind the tablet in the photo. It reads "Direzione Nazionale Antimafia".In the UK we take it for granted that the police has national organised crime contained if not eradicated, but what must it be like when it isn’t, as in Italy? Don Corleone (aka Paul) poses alongside the plaque.

Let's end on a really cheerful note: a street ensemble playing in a piazza near the Vatican. And very professional, too. Rome seems to come up with these unexpected delights so often. So now it’s arrivederci Roma, and dobar dan Dubrovnik in a few days.