15th May: Primosten and Trogir

Today we decided to make a tour of the coast south of Šibenik. First stop, for morning coffee, was the island town of Primosten, now joined by a short causeway. Cafés with decent coffee, cakes and ice cream are available everywhere in Croatia at reasonable prices, so we quickly found one on the quay and sat in the sunshine. It’s a very pleasant place, but not that old. The best general view was from a lay-by after leaving the town.

In 30 minutes of driving along the lovely Dalmatian coastline we arrived at Trogir. It is also an island town, joined by a bridge to the mainland, but this one has a long history going back to its founding by the Greeks in the 3^rd century BC.

The main square is particularly pleasing and dominated on one side by the Venetian-towered cathedral dating from 1213. A master mason called Radovan carved many fine figures on the frontage, and also an inscription in which he describes himself as “most excellent in his art”. Talented, yes: modest, no. This is the building.

Facing the cathedral is the town clock and loggia, an open-air gallery containing an intricately carved 15^th century frieze  (not by Mr Bighead this time). We went in to see the carvings and to take photos of the cathedral.

The loggia was quite crowded, and the reason was soon apparent: a choir was about to sing. This was a klapa choir, an ensemble of between 5 and 10 men singing traditional Croatian songs. Almost every town or village has such a group.

The choir struck up, performing as klapa choirs do, without musical accompaniment. The singing was most professional and the harmonies exquisite. So impressed were we that we bought their CD afterwards. This is the choir, Klapa Tragos, in front of the frieze. Out of curiosity you may like to hear them on You Tube: if so, click the following link:  www.youtube.com/watch?v=NE-vRRB72_4

The town still has some of its defensive walls standing, but most were demolished by Napoleon’s men in the belief that allowing the sea breezes to waft through the town would blow away the endemic malaria. Simple logic often works, a pity not this time. Anyway, here’s the Town Gate in a part of the wall that has survived.

We had been expecting Croatia to be poorer than it has turned out to be. Maybe we will see a different side later, when we go inland away from the tourist areas.  We did however see a beggar today, but this had more to do with the presence of tourists than poverty. She was quite well dressed and had a bowl in her left hand that she shoved under diners’ noses as she darted in and out of the restaurant clientele. Deserving or not?

We had already eaten by this time, in the narrowest alley possible that still had room for passers-by. Again, beautifully cooked pizzas, and great value.

So we trogged back from Trogir to Camp Marina via the more direct inland route, passing through lush green hill country. It was odd that we didn’t see any cattle, sheep or goats grazing, but there weren’t many houses either.