June 7th: Ljubljana

This is the capital of Slovenia, located about 40 miles from Bled. It is one of the smallest European capitals, and its medieval core is delightful. In many showcase cites, the streets are wide and full of imposing edifices, or narrow winding and quaint. Here the thoroughfares are wide and gently curving with varied, elegant old buildings of quality. See below as an example

There’s been habitation here since 2,000 BC, with Roman, Slav and German/Austrian influences being the most important. It has suffered two large earthquakes, in 1511 and 1895. The old centre is almost encircled by the River Ljubljanica with the castle on a hill at the back. River frontages usually look appealing and this is no exception.

Many of the bridges have a long history. The shoemakers bridge shown next was occupied by shoemakers following the eviction of the butchers by popular petition to the ruling Emperor Maximilian 1st because of the smell. Max was a depressive and used to take his coffin with him on his travels. There are no shoemakers left, but the pile of shoes hanging up in the top right hand corner represents their past glories.



However, another reason for being in the city was to meet up with Jane’s nephew David who is doing research at Ljubljana University. Here’s Jane and David in Prešernov Trg, one of the principal squares.

 With a local guide, how could we fail to properly check out the city? It’s not the guidebook stuff; anyone can get hold of that, but the hidden corners. So now guess what this is.

 

A graffitied, derelict building? It’s certainly covered in graffiti; in fact it’s a non-profitmaking cultural and social centre, a huge 7,000 square metre squat of the former premises of the State owned ROG bicycle factory, closed in 1994. The organisers and users see this enterprise as providing extensive cultural opportunities from an unused building, and you have to ask the question, why not?

Bring your own bottle and fill it with milk from the dispensing machine. It’s in the market square: fresh milk every day, and cheap. What a great idea, but would it be too much bother for us back in the UK?

We liked Ljubljana very much. It had a great atmosphere and vibrancy. And not just the old quarter; the post 1895 earthquake buildings are quality designs, like this department store, completed in 1905 in the art nouveau style.