The Custom House

We are heading for a disused building at the end of a 3 mile dirt road known as the Custom House. I have been unable to discover much of its history other than that it was a Guardia Civil barracks. This police organisation was, and still is, responsible for customs, anti-smuggling and counter drug operations.

The road itself is in reasonable condition apart from ruts cause by heavy rain that no longer merit repair as the Custom House is not used. Here are some of our group walking along the better part of the track.

At its highest point the road provides a good view over Cartagena bay and the Custom House itself on the edge of the sea. The road then meanders down and around the hills so has few really steep sections.

Close-up , the Custom House building is in good repair but securely boarded up. It gave the Guardia Civil officers a good view over the bay. It’s on a long distance footpath and in such a lovely position, it’s a shame it can’t be used as a walkers’ hostel – or even a retirement home for Guardia Civil 

Thus far is the easy part: we now strike across country on rough footpaths before reaching another unmetalled road that takes us back to our starting point. As an example, we need to descend to this pretty bay and up the other side. 

Here we go down into the gully, thankfully in part on concrete steps. Tough walkers like us don’t need handrails! 

It’s up and down from bay to bay all the way as we follow the coast. We’re all pretty warm by now. Here’s an up section. Two of the party have mountain climbing experience and are super-fit, but are kind enough to pace back with the rest of us. Good to know we’re taking our own rescue team with us!

The shore stretches give us good views of the blue, clear sea. Ships use the bay area to anchor in sheltered waters while waiting to enter Cartagena harbour, which is a deep water anchorage for freight and cruise ships as well as being the Mediterranean headquarters of the Spanish Navy.

After several miles we turn inland and start the big climb up to the return road. We are grateful for this rest stop half way up. Sweets all round. 

Last obstacle before the road is the Broken Rocks. We take the path around the top end as the other, middle path, is scrambly and slow.

At the dirt road there is a wide panorama; it’s an empty, barren landscape, but awesome at the same time. We passed the ruined walls of animal pens and cultivation terraces on the way but it’s impossible to image how farming here could sustain a living in past times with so little soil and an annual rainfall of only 8 inches, much of which would be in run-off deluges.

We finish at the cantina in the local village, with good coffee, cold beer and salmonella–rich tapas. We savour a part of real Spain (but not the tapas).