Seville: the Royal Palace, the Alcazar

The palace entrance is through a gate in the old city wall; what remains of the city walls now surround the palace. City walls existed since Roman times, and even before that an enclosure of logs and mud, but today although much modified over the centuries, they are essentially the structure of the Arab regime before the Christian reconquest.

The palace was originally built by the Moors and extended many times, for instance by ruler al-Mu’tadid to accommodate his extended harem of 800 women. Imagine the queues for the bathroom!

After the Christian reconquest, king Pedro 1^st started rebuilding the palace from scratch using the same floor area. He was known as Pedro the Cruel or Pedro the Wise meaning, like President Trump, you love him or you hate him. His justice chamber near the entrance looks out onto the only part of the original Moorish palace he retained. The plasterwork is still very fine, and the tranquility of the little patio is quite delightful.

Before entering the palace we took a detour into the Cuarto del Almirante, the Admiral’s room, in which many of the voyages of exploration were planned. Founded in 1503, the purpose was to plan, recruit and set in motion expeditions. In the room adjacent is a chapel where the Virgin of the Navigators painting depicts scenes from early journeys, including Columbus’. The detail is so fine that it has provided historians with information not available elsewhere. 

In the next room was a collection of fans from different countries, very beautiful, but the connection to the palace is not clear. This is an example in case you were thinking along the lines of stuffed Man United or Real Madrid supporters.

First impression on stepping into Pedro’s palace proper was that it could have been made by the Moors. In many ways it was, because Moorish architectural practices continued after the Christian reconquest using Moorish craftsman that simply carried on working and passing on their skills.

This type of work is called Mundejar, and the first courtyard is a good example. It is the Patio de las Doncellas, built in memory of the annual tribute of one hundred virgins demanded from the Christians by the Sultan ruler. Might not be so easy to supply that number these days.

The quality of the work is amazing as is the harmony created by the design.

The Salon of the Ambassadors coming up next is the most stunningly decorated room in the palace. An Arabic inscription says it was constructed in 1366 by craftsmen from Toledo. No jobbing workmen here.

This is another wall of the great room leading onto the Patio de las Doncellas, the courtyard shown earlier.

And not let’s forget the ceiling, a great work to contemplate should you happen fall flat on your back.

The Patio of the Dolls below is so named after two tiny faces in one of the arches, that we didn’t spot. The arches themselves were brought from a 10^th century ruined palace near Cordoba. The room was reputed to be the harem in Moorish times, but hardly room for 80 never mind the 800 mentioned earlier.

Pedro was supposed to have murdered his brother here in 1358, and on another occasion topped a royal guest for his jewels. One of these, a giant ruby, he gave to Edward the Black Prince which is now in the British crown jewels! 

Next is the beautiful Salon of Carlos V built by Pedro for his mistress Maria de Padilla who reputedly had magic powers such that some of the courtiers

would drink her bath water for a knock-on effect. They’d have certainly got that if bubble bath or Radox had been around in those days.

The palace of Carlos V built later is elegant but seems almost bare by comparison with the lushness of Pedro’s works.

Out into the gardens now and the Mercury pool, the statue in the middle. NIce effect of being cool and exotic.

More gardens, these laid out within the last 100 years, looking more like a conventional UK park. Very pleasant but unremarkable.

This is the unusual Garden of the Cross, a pool containing a giant green dumpling. We’re not awarding full marks for everything.

One last general view of the formal garden looking very exotic.

Pedro achieved exquisite layout and workmanship in his palace, but unfortunately we have to rule against him for his misdeeds: he’s definitely Pedro the Cruel.

Seville was a city full of interesting attractions, many of which will need to wait until next time as we now move on to the Cabo de Gata.